change and a fried apple pie

"No regrets." This is a phrase that goes through my head every time I have a big decision to make.  Weighing the options of the path ahead with the inevitable choices of things left behind.  This is especially difficult with regards to relationships.  Because so much of our lives revolve around those we interact with day after day.  There are those who inspire new ideas and stir passion within us.  Some people “sharpen” us through their personalities, sometimes revealing positive or negative things about us. 

Recently, with the acceptance of a new position in another company, I will no longer have the privilege of working with my fellow comrades whom I have grown to enjoy so much.  In the nature of this workplace, where you hit the ground running, there is seldom time for leisure “talk”.  Conversations are intermittent, like bullets shot out in passing, and since my workplace revolves around cooking, it is usually food related. There is never a day that goes by where ideas of new food combinations or recent culinary attempts good or bad are shared.  Jules, a fellow blogger (and amazing photographer) is always trying something new and to my great enjoyment usually brings in a sample or two to try.

With the onset of fall the fragrance of mulled cider wafts throughout the workplace, and has sparked many a conversation about other possible uses for the mulling spices.  Just the other day, our culinary director Rochelle came up with a spoon in her hand and told me to “open up”.  It was an ice cream base that she had infused with the mulling spices, creating a delicious crème anglaise that perfumed my head with cinnamon, allspice and star anise.  Lovely. 

There are many more folks I will also miss and all have a special place in my heart.  But the one whom I will look back on most and smile is my boss.  Probably the best descriptor of him is from a line in the movie Forrest Gump.  Forrest shares his moms’ idea of what life is likened: a “box of chocolates”.   In that, from day to day “you never know what you’re going to get”.  This has been my boss.  At one moment he’s a hurricane, ranting about and the next breaking out into show tunes (he has a very good singing voice by the way).  Working with him has caused my purchasing of antacid to go up dramatically.  But truth be told, I will miss him terribly.

So as a new chapter is beginning and I have the day off.  I think I will make some fried apple pies and a batch of Rochelle’s Spiced Vanilla Ice Cream to serve on the side.  Reflecting on the experiences and joys I’m leaving, but also looking forward to the adventure ahead. 

“Life is a journey along a bitter-sweet trail.  Sorry you faced the delivery of a difficult message today; we are so excited you are joining our team! Together through hard work, sense of true purpose and fun, we will assure this decision is the best one.”  

(A text I received from my new boss when I told her I officially gave my notice)

No regrets.

Shannon

Bourbon Fried Apple Pies 

inspired by Sam Beall

Fried pies, also called half-moon pies or mule’s ears are a well loved southern favorite.  Traditionally dried fruit, especially dried apples are used for the filling,  but since it is the height of apple season using some unique heirloom varieties found at the farmers' market or even the reliable Granny Smith are a fine option in breaking tradition.

For best results, make the pies ahead of time and freeze them on a tray.  They fry best when frozen.

1 Tbsp. unsalted butter

½ cup (packed) light brown sugar

½ tsp. ground cinnamon

½ tsp. vanilla

¼ cup Bourbon (optional)

4 tart apples, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 large egg

1 recipe sweet pastry dough (recipe below)

3 cups vegetable oil

Ice cream, for serving (optional)

In a medium skillet over medium heat combine the butter, sugar, and cinnamon.  Boil for about 5 minutes, until very thick and caramelized.  Remove from the heat and carefully stir in the Bourbon; the mixture may sputter.  Return the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring, for another 3 minutes.

Add the apples and swirl the pan or stir gently to coat the apples with the liquid.  Cook for 5 minutes more, or until the apples start to soften.  Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature; refrigerate if not using within an hour or two.

When you’re ready to assemble the pies, beat the egg and add a couple of tablespoons cold water together until smooth.  Set aside.  Strain the apple mixture through a fine-mesh strainer to remove the solids from the liquid.  Set both aside in separate bowls.

On a floured surface, roll out a quarter of the dough to a thickness of 1/8 inch.  With a 4-inch round cutter, cut out circles and transfer them to a parchment lined surface.  Brush the circles all over with the egg wash.  Spoon a tablespoon of the apple mixture and a little sauce onto the bottom half of each circle.  Fold the top of each down to cover the filling, making half moon shapes.  Using the tines of a fork or your fingers, press down on the edges to seal the pies.  If the dough begins to get to soft, stick it in the refrigerator for a few minutes or so to firm up a bit.

Transfer them to a rimmed baking, still on the parchment, being careful that they don’t touch each other.  Place the baking sheet in the freezer for 4 to 5 hours, until the pies are solidly frozen.  Once frozen, the pies can either be cooked immediately or transferred to resealable plastic bags and kept frozen for a month.

When ready to serve the pies, place the oil in a large skillet and heat of high heat until a pinch of flour sprinkled into the oil immediately bubbles (but doesn’t spit) and begins to brown, or a deep-fry thermometer registers 350°F.  Take the pies out of the freezer and fry a few at a time in the oil, turning them once, for about 5 minutes, until golden brown around the edges and the filling is heat through.

Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Repeat until all the pies are cooked.  Serve them warm with scoops of ice cream on the side.

makes 16 to 18 pies, enough for 8 to 10 servings 

Sweet Pastry

makes pastry for one 9-inch pie or one 10-inch tart

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup cake or pastry flour

½ cup confectioners’ sugar

¼ tsp. salt

8 Tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

Place the all-purpose flour, cake flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine.  Add the butter and pulse until the pieces of butter are the size of small peas.  In a small bowl, whisk the eggs and yolk together; pour them over the flour mixture and pulse until the mixture forms large clumps.

Scoop the dough out of the processor onto a floured surface (I am really enjoying using a floured pastry cloth for rolling out dough); knead a few times, just until the dough is smooth.  Form the dough into a disk and wrap in plastic.  Refrigerate for a least 30 minutes, or up to 2 days; the dough can also be frozen for up to 6 months and defrosted overnight in the refrigerator prior to using.

Rochelle's Spiced Vanilla Ice Cream

makes 1 quart

3 cups heavy cream

2/3 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped out

3 Tbsp. mulling spice mix put into a cheesecloth "purse"

Heat the cream, sugar, vanilla seeds and the mulling spice “purse” in a small saucepan only until the sugar is dissolved.  Be sure not to let the mixture come to a boil.  Once the sugar has dissolved, remove from heat and let set for about 20 minutes to allow the mulling spices to infuse the cream mixture.  Stain into a bowl, cover, and chill very well.  Freeze the mixture in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s direction.  Spoon into a freezer container and allow to chill in the freezer for a few hours.  Allow to soften before serving.

    

as sweet as tupelo honey

The fame of Tupelo honey didn’t necessarily happen with Van Morrison’s hit song back in 1971, where the songwriter declares “she’s as sweet as tupelo honey, just like honey from the bee”. Tupelo honey is famed on its own merit.

Tupelo honey is a uniquely delicious, top quality honey and is valued for its inability to granulate. It is one of the most expensive because it is the most expensive to produce. The honey comes from the tupelo gum tree that grows in flooded forest areas in Florida, Louisiana and Georgia. Care must be taken by the beekeepers to clean the combs at the right time so that when the white tupelo gum tree blossoms, only honey from these blossoms is collected. White tupelo honey is a prized sweet delicious light amber honey with a greenish hue. The delightful taste of pure white tupelo honey can be savored on hot buttered toast or for something a little out of the ordinary, incorporate it into a warm crème anglaise that has been infused with dried lavender to make lavender and honey ice cream.

This is a creamy unexpected treat that couldn’t be simpler or more delicious.

Enjoy!
Shannon

Lavender and Honey Ice Cream
makes 3 cups

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthways
½ cup tupelo honey
¼ cup dried lavender
6 egg yolks

Pour the cream and milk into a heavy bottomed pan and place over low heat. Scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod and add them to the creamy milk with the empty pod, along with the honey. Slowly, stirring to incorporate the honey, bring the mixture just below the boil. Remove from heat and stir in the dried lavender. Set aside to infuse for about 15 minutes.

In the meantime, beat the egg yolks with a whisk until the mixture becomes thick and pale yellow. Gently reheat the creamy milk mixture and pour on to the egg yolks, stirring with a whisk as you do so.

Strain through a fine mesh sieve back into the saucepan, removing the lavender. Place over the lowest possible heat. Stir gently and patiently until the custard thickens-this may take 10-15 minutes (don’t be tempted to increase the heat, or you’ll end up with scrambled eggs). It should be thick enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon. Draw a finger along the back of the spoon-it should leave a clear trace.

Pour custard into a covered container and let chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour or overnight.

rhubarb

“What do you do with this?” Is the typical question that I have been getting recently when purchasing these slender wildly crimson stalks.

The answer: pies, tarts or crumbles, but rhubarb is a great candidate for jam as well. It can be cooked as a compote and served over custard or ice cream, even layered in a trifle would be delicious. Quite often it is paired with other fruits such as strawberries, raspberries or apples to tame down the lively tartness.

I recently stumbled upon a recipe for rhubarb ice cream and just had to make it! I Began by making a simple vanilla custard or crème anglaise and then added the cooked rhubarb the last few minutes of churning. The result was beautiful, a soft pale pink with a subtle tartness that was hard to resist. The black flecks from the vanilla seeds dotted throughout added a lovely underpinning of flavor.  Spooned into chilled bowls and served straight from the churning vessel was the best way to appreciate its wonderful distinctive quality.

A very simple method for cooking rhubarb is to cut it up into even pieces with a sharp knife. Lay in a heavy-based pot and sprinkle with sugar (one-quarter of the weight of rhubarb in sugar). Allow to sit for 5-10 minutes to draw out the moisture, then cook gently and stir until just soft. Depending on your rhubarb you may need a little water or you could substitute orange juice, Verjuice or a sweet wine. A little vanilla bean is a lovely addition, but I think you will really be amazed that the rhubarb flavor alone is all you need.

Enjoy!
Shannon


Rhubarb Ice Cream
inspired by Skye Gyngell

Ice cream base
crème anglaise  (vanilla custard)

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthways
6 egg yolks, preferably organic free-range
½ cup sugar

Rhubarb

4 lbs. rhubarb
1 vanilla bean, split lengthways
½ cup sugar
½ cup to 1 cup Verjuice or water

Start by making the custard base for the ice cream following the method in the toolbox for crème anglaise. Set aside to cool.

Wash and trim the rhubarb, then cut into 1 inch chunks. Lay in a heavy-based pot and sprinkle with sugar. Scrape out the fine black seeds of the vanilla bean and put into the rhubarb mixture along with the bean itself. Allow to sit for 5-10 minutes to draw out the moisture, then add the ½ cup of the Verjuice or water and cook gently and stir until just soft, about 10 minutes or so. Add more Verjuice or water if necessary. The rhubarb should be soft, but not completely falling apart.

Remove rhubarb from heat and allow to cool. The rhubarb can be added to the ice cream base as is, or can be puréed slightly for a more smooth texture.

When ready to churn, pour the custard base into your ice cream maker and churn until thickened (about 20-25 minutes). Just before the ice cream sets, pour in the cool rhubarb and churn for another 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 10

toolbox: crème anglaise

Vanilla custard or Crème Anglaise is a staple for many desserts as well as breakfast specialties. It is a light pouring custard that can be used a dessert sauce, poured over cakes or fruits. The custard can be used for French toast or pain perdu and is the base for creamy ice cream or crème brûlée. It has a mild taste but a rich and thick vanilla flavor.

The custard in itself is not difficult to make, but it does require a fair amount of vigilance and care. The cream is made by whipping egg yolks and sugar together until the yolk is almost white and the batter forms pretty ribbons or until your arm gets tired (about 2 minutes), and then slowly adding hot milk, while whisking. The sauce is then cooked over low heat (otherwise the yolks will cook, resulting in scrambled eggs) and stirred constantly with a spoon until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, and then removed from heat. If the sauce reaches to high a temperature, it will curdle. Then you are back to square one.

This sauce is easy to do and should definitely be in anyone's 'toolbox'.

Enjoy!

Shannon

Crème Anglaise (vanilla custard)
makes 3 cups

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1 vanilla bean, split lengthways
6 egg yolks, preferably organic free-range
½ cup sugar

Pour the cream and milk into a heavy bottomed pan and place over low heat. Scrape the vanilla seeds from the pod and add them to the creamy milk with the empty pod. Slowly bring to just below the boil, remove from heat and set aside to infuse for about 15 minutes.

In the meantime, beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a mixing bowl with a whisk until the mixture becomes thicker and paler. Gently reheat the creamy milk and pour on to the egg yolk mixture, stirring with the whisk as you do so.

Return the custard to the saucepan and place over the lowest possible heat. Stir gently and patiently until the custard thickens-this may take 10-15 minutes (don’t be tempted to increase the heat, or you’ll have scrambled eggs). It should be thick enough to lightly coat the back of a wooden spoon. Draw finger along the back of the spoon-it should leave a clear trace.

As soon as the custard thickens, remove from the heat, pour into a bowl and allow to cool. Don’t leave it in the saucepan, as the heat of the pan will continue to cook the custard. Once cooled, the custard is ready to use or can be stored in the refrigerator. Sauce will keep for 4 days.

double decadence

Knowing my daughter was going to be home from college this past weekend and also knowing that she is pretty over the top regarding anything chocolate, especially dark chocolate. I decided to make a rich dark chocolate ice cream that has, not only one, but two types of dark chocolate.

The lush, luxurious texture of this dense chocolaty ice cream has a hint of Frangelico liquor as well as some roasted hazelnuts that provide a wonderful crunch.

Serve a couple scoops of this chocolate decadence drizzled with extra-melted chocolate and top with a maraschino cherry, if you like.

Enjoy!

Shannon

p.s.

She went back to school today...the ice cream container is empty.

Double Decadence
Serves 10

9 egg yolks
1 cup sugar
Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp. vanilla paste
2 Tbsp. Frangelico
8 ounces good quality dark chocolate, melted
2 Tbsp. Dutch-process cocoa, sieved
2 ½ cup whipping cream
8 ounces crème fraîche or sour cream
1 cup roasted hazelnuts, skins removed, coarsely chopped
Maraschino cherries (optional)

Whisk yolks, sugar, vanilla seeds and Frangelico in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of simmering water until mixture is tripled in volume, thick and pale and holds a ribbon (4-5 minutes).

Remove bowl from heat and continue whisking until cooled (2-3 minutes). Add chocolate and cocoa and mix to combine.

In another bowl whisk together cream and crème fraîche until blended. Add to the chocolate mixture. Pour into a container, cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.

Freeze mixture in an ice cream maker for approximately 20 minutes, it will still be quite soft. Add the chopped hazelnuts right at the end, just until mixed through. Then transfer to an airtight container and put in the freezer to firm up.