a little inspiration and some soup

Garlic may be available year-round, but the season for young garlic is terribly short, only a few weeks in spring and early summer. At a recent jaunt to the farmers’ market I stumbled across a crate of these naked-looking new bulbs, soil still clinging to their roots and stalks. Their nearly skinless, barely formed cloves have a crunch similar to Granny Smith apples. These immature heads when harvested early are filled with a milky juice that is both pungent and sugary.

For the time-pressed cook, young garlic has a practical payoff: there is no need to remove the annoying raspy skins, as with mature garlic. You can slice and sauté an entire head like an onion, and the green parts of the young garlic are also edible.  Young garlic is an excellent candidate for soups, roasting alongside meats and puréeing for mashed potatoes, aioli and the like.

Coming away from the market with new found inspiration as well as a bunch of beautiful young garlic, some spinach and a couple of potatoes, I rushed home and got cooking.

Enjoy!

Shannon

Young Garlic & Spinach Soup
Inspired by Heidi Swanson

serves 4-6

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

3 young garlic bulbs with green stalks, bulbs cut into small dice, and green stalks sliced into 1 inch lengths*

2 russet potatoes, unpeeled, ½ inch dice

1 bunch spinach

1 quart chicken stock

¼ cup crème fraîche

½ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Start by washing the spinach really well in several changes of water. Spinach tends to hold dirt on the leaves and stems. Rinse until the water runs clear. Set aside.

In a good sized soup pot melt the butter over low heat until it is softly foaming. Add the young garlic, stems and all and cook until softened and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Add potatoes to the garlic along with the stock and simmer, covered for 20 minutes until potatoes are tender. Take off the stove and add the spinach, stir in until wilted. Purée in small batches using a conventional blender (or you can use an immersion blender if you have one). If using a conventional blender use caution. The hot liquid can create pressure and burst out of the top. To insure against this, use a kitchen towel over the lid holding down firmly. Once puréed add back to the pot and heat gently. Whisk in crème fraîche, add freshly grated nutmeg and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve, garnished with chive blossoms if desired.

*If you have trouble finding the young garlic, a substitute of 1 bunch green onions and 3 cloves of garlic would be fine.

up the coast, part 3

Before making our way back home on the last day of our trip up the coast, we decided to stop into a local dining establishment for breakfast.

Big Sky Cafe has been a local favorite in San Luis Obispo as well as food critics from around the world, since 1994. It has had stellar reviews from such noted publications as the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, Gourmet Magazine (back in ’08), and even Rachel Ray.

They specialize in using produce from local farms. A quote from the chef/owner Charles Myers was quoted in Gourmet Magazine as saying “Every year our local farm resources deepen and improve…we have an ever expanding palate of organic fruits and vegetables, farmstead cheeses, olive oils, and vintage vinegars to create our fresh market dishes daily.”

The décor of the restaurant is interesting. In that it seems to have this hippie/southwest motif. There are tie-dyed tapestries, a lot of wood paneling, with a bit of odd statuary thrown in for good measure. The desert landscape paintings that are placed around the dining room are lovely, my favorite being the one adjacent to the long hardwood bar.

When looking at the menu I knew I wanted to go beyond the typical omelet or bowl of fruit. This led me to three options the Red Flannel Turkey Hash with Basil-Parmesan glazed eggs, the Devil’s mess, or the Traditional New Mexican Pozole. Decisions, decisions.

I landed on the pozole. A spicy hominy stew with peppers, tomatillos, pumpkins seeds, cumin & cilantro with a poached egg on cornbread with queso fresco.

It was a good choice. So good in fact that since I’ve been home I have been trying to make my own version of pozole that might come somewhat close to theirs. I believe I have succeeded. The earthy dark pasilla chile, along with the fire roasted tomatoes and chicken stock make a soul satisfying broth. The creamy rich avocado and cheese add richness, and the crunch of the toasted pepitas rounds the soup beautifully.

If you want to make the Big Sky version the owner has a blog in which he posted the recipe (just love when they do that!) but it is pretty involved and a little time consuming. My version is much simpler and has its own merits. With or without the cornbread and poached egg this is a tasty breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Enjoy!

Shannon

Pozole my way

serves 4 to 6

3 large dried pasilla (negro) chile, stemmed and seeded

2 15-ounce cans diced tomatoes in juice (preferably fire-roasted)

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil or olive oil

1 medium white onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 ½ quarts chicken broth (preferably homemade)

1 Tbsp. dried epazote or Mexican oregano

1 Tbsp. cumin

3 15- ounce cans hominy, drained

8 ounces shredded cooked chicken or pork

½ cup toasted pepitas seeds

1 large ripe avocado, pitted, flesh scooped from the skin and cut into ½ cubes

1 cup queso fresco, crumbled

½ cup Mexican crema, sour cream or crème faîche for garnish

Cilantro leaves for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving

Quickly toast the chile by turning it an inch or two above an open flame for a few seconds until its aroma fills the kitchen. (Lacking an open flame, toast it in a dry pan over medium heat, pressing it flat for a few seconds, then flipping it over and pressing it again.) Break the chile into pieces and put in a blender jar along with the tomatoes with their juice. (A food processor will work, though it won’t completely puree the chile.)

Heat the oil in a medium (4-quart) saucepan over medium-high. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until golden, about 7 minutes. Scoop up the onion and garlic with a slotted spoon, pressing them against the side of the pan to leave behind as much oil as possible, and transfer to the blender with the tomato mixture. Process until smooth.

Return the pan to medium-high heat. When quite hot, add the puree and stir nearly constantly, until thickened to the consistency of tomato paste, about 6 minutes. Add the broth and epazote, if using or Mexican oregano and cumin. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about a generous teaspoon (depending on the saltiness of the broth).

Just before serving, add the hominy, and chicken to the simmering broth. Divide the pepitas, avocado, cheese and cilantro between the serving bowls. When the hominy and chicken have warmed through, usually about 5 minutes, ladle the soup into the bowls. Garnish with crema. Pass the lime separately

up the coast, part 1

The hubby and I decided to take a couple days off from work and head up the coast to check out some property in the central coast area. We couldn’t have picked a better time; the weather was cool and clear after a small rain storm the previous day. We got an early start, picked up my caffeine fix and pushed through the L.A. stop and go. But since we were getting away, even the traffic couldn’t faze us. We had our trusty map (which ended up not being so trusty after all) and a list of some highly rated food spots as well as days and times of some local farmers markets in the area that we wanted to check out.

Our first stop was in Pismo Beach which boasts of white sandy beaches, a Monarch Butterfly Grove, hiking trails of beautiful beaches with tide pools, coves and caves. But of course those were not the priority, no I had in mind a tasty bread bowl filled with a rich, creamy clam chowder from Splash Cafe.

Splash is famous for their clam chowder and apparently their recipe has been sought after from publications such as Gourmet and Bon Appetit but to no avail. You can order their chowder online, but if you are driving through, it is worth the stop. When you order the chowder, getting it in the bread bowl is the only way to go.  They cut out the center section of the sourdough boule, grill it up and serve along side the bread bowl for dipping. The chowder is thick and creamy with traces of potato and an underpinning of garlic. So good.

Since I’ve been back home, I have been thinking about the chowder, probably way too much. So I thought I would search out a recipe that might be a close match. This recipe from Restaurant Budd Bay Café in Olympia Washington is pretty darn close to Splash.  So if heading to Splash Café in Pismo Beach isn’t in your upcoming plans making this recipe could be a way to visit Splash vicariously.

Enjoy!
Shannon

Smokey Clam Chowder
Bon Appétit December 1996 Restaurant: Budd Bay Cafe; Olympia, Washington

1 pound russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter
3 celery stalks, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
1/2 cup all purpose flour
6 8-ounce bottles clam juice
4 6 1/2-ounce cans chopped clams with juices
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh marjoram or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh dill or 1/4 teaspoon dried dill weed
1/4 teaspoon powdered garlic
1/8 teaspoon liquid smoke*
2 cups whipping cream
1 cup whole milk
1 tsp. sherry for serving (optional)

Boil potatoes in large saucepan of salted water until just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain potatoes well.

Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add celery and onion and sauté until onion is translucent, about 6 minutes. Add flour and stir 2 minutes. Gradually mix in clam juice. Simmer until beginning to thicken, stirring frequently, about 2 minutes. Add clams with juices, parsley, thyme, marjoram, dill, garlic, liquid smoke and potatoes. Simmer 5 minutes to blend flavors. Add cream and milk. Bring to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to simmer before serving.)

Optional:  One ingredient that really makes this chowder exceptional is to pour about a teaspoon of cream sherry on to the top of the chowder right at serving.  I prefer using Fino or Manzanilla which are both pale, straw colored. Both are excellent with seafood, mild cheese, fish or ham. The delicate crisp aroma and nutty flavor are a nice counter balance to the rich and creamy chowder.

*Liquid smoke is a smoke-flavored liquid seasoning available at specialty foods stores and many supermarkets.

stages

I wasn't planning on posting today. You would think after November’s marathon of blogging I would be relieved and move on to other things that are piling up.

In a sense I am relieved, not having the pressure of making sure I post so that I don’t get behind. But it seems that posting everyday has created a habit…doesn’t it take three weeks of doing something regularly to make it a habit?

Well, whatever it is, as I was going about cleaning the “scary” room today to make room for yet another project, my mind was going over a potential blog post idea. You see this morning I did my usual, get up, go into the office and check email and to see the news headlines. I also have been in the habit of checking one particular blog Not Without Salt. The author of this blog was the one who inspired me to do this crazy blogging everyday for a month thing. So I was curious what she posted each day. She was so faithful to the task, that is until the later part of the month and then the posts were slowing down.

I do not know her personally, but apparently, she is a young mom with two little boys that keep her hopping, and as any of us that have children know, they can consume a lot of time. I remember those days. I am in a different stage of life now, with both kids in college. Yes I work, and I’m busy, but it is not as demanding as having little ones under foot.

I was making a favorite family fall soup today and it dawned on me that I started making this soup about 17 years ago, when my kids were young and “under foot”. Looking back, even if they had blogs back then…which they didn’t…I don’t believe I would have been able to keep a blog current. I have to hand it to all these young mom’s out there, blogging or not, they are amazing.

Sometimes I think success in something means doing the best we can with what we have and what stage of life we are in. Success is in the trying, not necessarily the triumph. It is a personal standard, reaching the highest possible goal.

So to me, even though Not Without Salt didn’t get in 30 posts for the National Blog Writing Month, she chose a higher standard, investing in those relationships that really matter.

So for those of you who are investing in your families, cooking, creating memories and traditions, here is a tried and true family favorite from my kitchen to yours.

Enjoy!

Shannon

Curried Butternut Squash Soup

4 tbsp. butter

1 medium-sized onion, finely chopped

6 cups butternut squash (approx. 3 pounds), peeled and cubed

1 cup carrots, peeled and chopped

1 cup parsnips, peeled and chopped

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves

1 ½ tsp. curry powder

½ cup dry white wine

4 cups chicken stock

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper to taste

Garnish: toasted pepitas, caramelized shallots or garlic croutons are tasty as well.

Melt butter in a saucepan over low heat. Add onion and celery; cook over low heat covered 10 minutes or until limp. Add squash, carrots, parsnips, thyme and curry powder. Cover saucepan and cook 10 to 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender.

Add the chicken stock and dry white wine and simmer 20 to 30 minutes. Purée soup in food processor until smooth. Return to saucepan and add cream, salt, and pepper.

Ladle soup into warmed serving bowls and garnish with toasted pepitas, caramelized shallots or garlic croutons.

Serves 4 to 6

soups on

Here is a tasty option for some of those Thanksgiving leftovers once the stuffing and gravy have been finished off. By adding some stock, and diced turkey, along with a little bacon (never a bad idea) and a few winter vegetables you can create another meal that will warm you up on a chilly evening.  And thankfully you don't have to even turn on the oven. 

Enjoy!
Shannon


Roast Turkey and Winter Vegetable “Chowder”
Adapted from The Thanksgiving Table by Diane Morgan

3 slices bacon
1 large yellow onion, cut into ½ inch dice
2 ribs celery, cut into ½ inch dice
2 large Yukon potatoes cut into ½ inch dice
1 butternut squash, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into ½ dice
7 cups turkey stock or canned low-sodium chicken stock
1 medium zucchini, cut into ½ inch dice
2 cups chopped, de-ribbed swiss chard leaves
2 cups ½ inch dice of roast turkey or one Rotisserie Chicken
1 Tbsp. fresh sage, torn
1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves
Salt & freshly ground pepper
In a heavy 6-quart stock pot, cook the bacon over medium heat, stirring frequently, until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon to plate. Set aside.

Pour off all but 2 Tbsp. of the bacon fat, and return the pot to medium heat. Add the onion and celery. Sauté until the vegetables are soft, but not browned, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the potatoes, squash and turkey stock. Bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Partially cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Add zucchini, swiss chard, turkey, sage, thyme and the reserved bacon. Cook 5 minutes longer.

Add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and serve.

lunch with Teri

There are a few people in my life that I really enjoy spending time with. Unfortunately, because of schedules it doesn’t happen as often as I would like. One of these people is my friend Teri. We have known each other for more years than I want to admit, but even if we haven’t talked or got together in a while we can still pick up right where we left off. It's that kind of comfortable, cozy slipper, wrapped up in a blanket kind of friendship.

On the flip side, she is a creative genius in many ways and when we have an opportunity to do something creative together, whether it is design or food related…stand back! We sort of feed off of each other and when those creative juices start pumping just watch out. Who knows what is going to happen…although the end result is usually quite satisfying.

I put a call into her not so long ago, putting in a request for a lunch date at one of my favorite places to eat in my hometown San Juan Capistrano. It’s called Ramos House. The idea of the restaurant/ house is simple; like the old days, its owner lives and works at the house, the wines are kept in the cellar, the herbs are grown in the garden and the ice cream is turned out back. The menu changes daily and everything is made from scratch.  I have probably eaten everything on the menu, or close to it.

This particular day sitting out on Ramos’ covered patio, it was a little cool. Although I was sitting next to the wood burning stove with one of the provided blankets on my lap, I wanted something warm. The Corn Chowder with Truffled Popcorn was the ticket.

Thankfully, for both you and me John Q. the chef/owner has published his cookbook Ramos House Cafe: Recipes from the first 5 years  so I am able to share this recipe with you.

I did make this at home and it was just as good…although it would have been better if Teri were there.

Enjoy!

Shannon

Corn Chowder

From the Ramos House

10 ears of sweet white corn

1 yellow onion, diced (1 cup)

¾ cup butter

¾ cup masa harina (corn flour)

½ cup diced red bell peppers

1 bunch scallions, thinly chopped

½ cup celery, diced

1 Tbsp. chipotle chilies, pureed

1 cup white corn hominy

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 tsp. garlic, minced

1 tsp. fresh chopped thyme

1 russet potato, diced into ¼ inch cubes

Freshly popped corn

Truffle oil (optional)

Method:

Cut kernels from the cobs and set aside. Place corn cobs in a large stock pot and cover with water (approx. 8 cups). Bring water to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour. Remove from heat and strain the corn stock through a sieve, discarding the cobs and reserving the liquid.

In a separate stock pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add masa harina and incorporate using a whisk. Stirring constantly over medium-low heat, cook the masa roux for approximately 5 minutes. Add onions, peppers, celery, garlic, scallions, oregano, thyme, chipotles, and reserved corn kernels. Stir to coat the vegetables with roux. Cook for 5 more minutes over medium, stirring occasionally to avoid scorching the bottom of the pot. Add corn broth and remaining ingredients, bring to a simmer. If soup seems too thick, add water, chicken stock or vegetable stock. Reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Top off with some freshly popped corn and drizzle on some truffle oil.

Serves 6 -8